Finding Peace and Connection at Kopan Monastery: A 10-Day Journey

Are you feeling lost in life, wondering if there's more to it than just working, saving money, and traveling in an endless cycle? While Kopan Monastery in Nepal may not provide all the answers, my 10-day experience there for the Introduction to Buddhism course offered invaluable lessons and, most importantly, connections with incredible people. The course itself costs USD 175, which includes all meals and accommodation in a dorm.

Before my stay at Kopan Monastery, I had minimal experience with meditation and mental health practices. I viewed Buddhism as a potential lifestyle choice, one that emphasizes meditation and a peaceful approach to life. Raised as a passionate Christian until the age of 19, Christianity remains deeply rooted in me. However, I believe in the importance of self-improvement and understanding oneself better. With this mindset, I was open to learning and practicing meditation.

View from Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

Kopan is located on a hill in the Kathmandu Valley, just 30 minutes from Thamel. From this vantage point, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the city, although pollution often obscured the mountains. However, after a good rain, the air would clear, revealing stunning views of the mountains and the valley.

The course is hosted monthly at Kopan Monastery, except in November when a month-long Lam Rim meditation course takes place. We were fortunate to have three nuns teaching and guiding our meditations. This was the first time the course was led entirely by nuns, with no monks involved. I was initially surprised by my own expectation to be taught by monks, but I was pleased to see women taking on more prominent roles in the Buddhist community.

Ani (nun) at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

The monastery's facilities are extensive, hosting 380 monks and 360 nuns, in addition to 130 attendees to the Introduction to Buddhism course. If you arrive a few days before the start of the course, you might be able to secure one of the private rooms available on a first-come, first-served basis for an extra USD 90. Alternatively, a two-person shared room, like the one I had, costs an additional USD 50. I was fortunate to share a room with one other person who became a close friend by the end of the course. This friendship greatly enriched my experience, and I am deeply grateful for it. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the rooms were well-kept and almost modern compared to other places in Nepal. The vegetarian food provided was amazing, and I had expected to lose weight due to the limited food options, but I was positively impressed by the quality and variety of the meals.

Dorms and bedrooms buildings inside Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

I arrived at Kopan around 1 pm on the day of check-in. That morning, I indulged in breakfast at one of my favorite coffee shops in Thamel, the Pumpernickel Cafe. I enjoyed a latte and a cheese croissant, thinking I wouldn’t be able to choose my daily meals as I wanted once at the monastery. I took my time wandering around the souvenir shops and busy streets, oddly feeling that I would miss the noisy and chaotic city life.

At check-in, we had to complete a form and wait in line to hand over any important documents or electronics we wanted to leave at the office. Understanding that it was a screen-free retreat, I handed over my cellphone after saying goodbye to my family and friends for 10 days.

I found it useful to bring a towel and extra hand soap, as these items were not provided. There's a small supermarket on the premises, although it's more expensive and lacks fresh fruit. While fruit was included with some meals, it's advisable to bring your own snacks for tea time and fruits before checking in. Once checked in, you are not supposed to leave the premises, so having these items beforehand ensures you have everything you need for your stay. Additionally, there's a coffee shop on-site offering various vegetarian alternatives to the meals provided in the retreat. It's a good idea to bring some cash if you'd like to indulge in espressos and sweets at the coffee shop during your free time.

Chenrezig Gompa at Kopan Monastery is where we had our teachings and meditations, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

The retreat consisted of 8 days with a consistent routine, followed by 2 days of silent retreat with a different schedule. During the first part, we had a busy schedule with the first meditation starting at 6:45 am each morning. Every day, we had two 45-minute meditations and two teachings lasting 2 hours and 15 minutes each, along with a one-hour group discussion after lunch. The day would end around 9 pm with a Q&A session or another activity. Despite not having our cellphones and social media to distract us, we often felt tired and took naps whenever we could between activities.

I believe that the screen detox allowed our bodies to relax, and we felt at peace between the meditations and the tranquil environment. Before Kopan, I struggled with sleep and had an erratic sleeping schedule. However, at Kopan, I found myself in bed by 10 pm and waking up refreshed and ready to face the day by 6:15 am.

Main Gompa at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

The days passed both quickly and slowly. I enjoyed the little things, like chatting with strangers and hearing their stories without the aid of pictures or Google. It felt like being transported to a time when the Internet wasn't the answer to everything, and you couldn't pre-know someone through social media. We played card games after the evening activities, laughing and feeling like kids again.

What I enjoyed most was meeting people on the same journey, regardless of age or race, ranging from 19 years old to 70 years old and coming from almost all over the world. We were all seeking answers in a world where expectations and success have different meanings. I was amazed by the number of healthcare professionals participating in the course. It warmed my heart to see that even those who seem to have all the answers in logic and facts were looking for something more.

Stupas at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

If I had to rate the teachings and meditations, I would say they were a bit too intense for me. Although they encourage participants to take parts of Buddhist teachings that resonate with them, my background as a Christian made me feel like I was part of a cult at times. Between the prostrations, mantras, and guided visualizations of Buddha, I couldn't fully immerse myself in the experience. However, I realized that it depended on who was giving the teachings and leading the meditations. I particularly enjoyed the sessions from one nun who was more down-to-earth and relatable in her approach.

Ultimately, how much Buddhism permeates you depends on your willingness to question and accept its teachings. The group discussions were invaluable, as they allowed us to question the teachings and take what was meaningful to us. It was reassuring to see that I wasn't alone in my feelings and doubts.

Tibetan flags inside Kopan Monastery at the Stupa garden, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

The last two days were dedicated to a silent retreat, where everyone refrained from talking and even making eye contact. I enjoyed this experience, as I love writing and had ample time to write during those days. Living alone and appreciating silence made this part of the retreat quite manageable for me. However, on the final night at the monastery, everyone eagerly engaged in conversation, having missed the sound of our own voices.

One thing I regret is not staying a few days after the course ended. You'll likely want to travel or have dinner with the friends you made at the monastery. Unfortunately, I had a flight scheduled for the same day the course ended and missed out on this opportunity. If you can, I highly recommend planning a few extra days to unwind and spend time with the wonderful people you meet during the retreat.

May 2024, Introduction to Buddhism course at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal.

In conclusion, my time at Kopan Monastery was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I highly recommend to everyone at least once. The screen detox was particularly impactful, as I felt overwhelmed when I left the monastery and headed straight to the airport. It felt as if time had stood still while we were inside the monastery, and leaving made everything fast-forward again.

During my stay, I found immense peace and a sense of detachment from the troubles of the outside world. I take with me some valuable teachings, such as being kind and embracing suffering. What I appreciate most from the experience is the people I met. Some of us traveled together afterward, and I remain in touch with others.

This experience reinforced that we are not alone in our journeys and that many of us are doing our best to find answers in life. The most important takeaway is to remember to breathe and enjoy the everyday little things that life brings.

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Disclaimer: Use the information provided at your own risk. I'm here to offer guidance, not guarantees.

Tags: Kathmandu, Kopan Monastery, Introduction to Buddhism, Nepal 2024, Buddhist Teachings